For 32 oz cans see Quarts and for gallon cans see Gallons. In the s Pabst and a handful of California breweries made quart cans with a very, very low spout that was capped with a very thin bottle cap. Hinged lid tins were on the market. Also established guidelinesfor links between foods and health related conditions. Look carefully at the wording at the top of the can. If the label feels embossed in any way, the can was likely made sometime after They are all fairly rare and very valuable in good condition.

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I get a lot of emails asking "how old is this can? I'll start off with some general hints and rules and then we'll get to specifics. There are often exceptions to these rules so I'll try to include them when I can. Date Stamps: First off, if you have a Ballantine or any one of a number of cans from the Pacific Coast states there may be a date stamped on your can on the top or bottom! This will indicate either the date the can was filled, or the date the beer was brewed before, so you have a good idea of about when your can was produced and sold. What about copyright dates? Some cans show a copyright date. This applies to the year the label design was copyrighted and it can be misleading. For example, Olympia cans show a copyright date from well before Prohibition. This does not mean that the can is from that year a mistake I've seen on eBay but only that the label design was copyrighted then. Still, copyright dates can be useful. If you see a can with "Copyright " on it, then you know it does not date earlier than that. Schlitz cans are the exception as they were especially good with copyright dates because they redesigned their cans every couple of years. You'll find Schlitz cans with copyright dates of , , , , , , and and dates afterwards. Look along the seam for the year on most Schlitz cans.

The charm of antique milk cans makes them appealing collectibles, but their age and original use means your "find" will probably be pretty beat-up -- maybe even rusty.

It's not so tough to restore an check this out can -- you'll want some signs of wear to show, and you may even want to distress your new finish to "age" the can.

Just do some basic cleanup, and then give your prize a highly visible new home. Really old milk cans were made of galvanized tin. From the s through the early part of the 20th century, tin milk cans with plug -- depressions and handles -- or umbrella dating milk cans flat -- covers were delivered by cart, or later by rail or truck. Stainless steel cans weren't made until post-World War Dating milk cans, when milk was shipped in cans submersed in ice water to prevent spoilage.

A tin or steel can will probably have patches or a film of rust on it, but you're not contemplating days of laborious sanding. Sand off the worst patches of rust and remove peeling or chipping paint. Wipe down the can, inside and out, to remove any rust or dirt; a very dirty can will need sponging or scrubbing with soapy water, rinsing and drying. Then coat the can with a rust-destroying metal primer that seals the surface and creates good "grip" for a decorative paint job.

A milk can with an umbrella top makes a terrific end table or stool. The flat top is strong enough to support some weight because shipping cans dating milk cans made dating milk cans be tough enough to survive years of rough handling.

For a contemporary setting, prep the old can with a base coat of rust-inhibiting metal primer. Once it dries, spray or paint the can with a solid-color glossy enamel. Black is both sharp and chic; a bright red, yellow or orange adds a boost of brightness to a dark corner; a muted tone or a neutral blends into spare decor wit natural colors and materials.

Rustic, eclectic or primitive decor absorbs a funky recreation of a weathered milk can after you faux-distress it:. When the dark paint is dry, decorate the can with low-adhesive old-fashioned type stick-on letters to spell out the name dating milk cans a dairy. Find a real historical dairy name online, make up one for your town, or use your family name.

Paint over the letters and the dark bronze with muted rusty orange, pea green or gray-blue. Use a dry-brush technique with very little paint in some places. Thin the color slightly and "miss" large areas and sections around welding or the rim so it appears that the paint is worn away.

Before the read article color dries, wipe away some of it with a rag to simulate further wear. Then peel off the letters to reveal the name in the darker paint. That a milk can umbrella stand is something of a cliche does nothing to diminish its rustic charm. Go ahead and park it in your entry, but first restore some individual character and identity to your useful and decorative container.

Paint the primed can with solid-color latex in an "historic" color -- milky soft turquoise, creamy yellow, barn red and forest green will look like really old paint. Cover the latex with white chalk paint -- just one coat, lightly applied. Rub the dried chalk paint in spots with a wet paper towel to wear away some of the paint and reveal the color underneath.

Create a dairy logo in a period font and print it -- add a milk cow for a picturesque touch. Tape the printed logo and any art over a piece of carbon paper on the can, and burnish the design onto the can.

After you remove the paper, hand-paint the stenciled artwork in a dark, contrasting color. Rub the design with sandpaper to distress it once it's dry and clear-coat the entire umbrella stand with protective polyurethane.

A plastic plant saucer liner, available in garden supply stores, slipped inside the open can, catches wet umbrella drips so water doesn't sit in the bottom of the milk can. Benna Crawford has speed dating townsville jupiters a journalist and New York-based writer since Crawford has a degree in theater, is a certified Prana Yoga instructor, and writes about fitness, performing and att verse up hook u arts, culture, sports, business and education.

By: Dating black guy starter pack Crawford Updated July 21, Share It. Prime the can and brush on a rough coat of dull oil-rubbed bronze paint. About the Author.

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